Richardson 112 Digitizing Guide

The Richardson 112 is the most popular trucker hat in the world. Everyone loves the fit and the mesh back.

But if you are an embroiderer, you probably hate it.

Why? because it breaks your needles. The front of the hat is very hard, and the seam in the middle is extremely thick. If you use a normal digitizing file, your machine will struggle.

In this guide, we will show you the exact settings to use so you never break a needle again.

The Problem: The “Speed Bump” Seam

Think of the center seam of the Richardson 112 like a speed bump. It is a thick ridge of folded fabric and glue.

When your embroidery needle hits this “speed bump” at high speed, three things happen:

• The Needle Bends: We call this “deflection.” It hits the hard bump and curves slightly.
• The Needle Snaps: Because it bent, it hits the metal plate on your machine and breaks.
• The Gap: The thick seam pushes the fabric apart, leaving an ugly gap in the middle of your design.

Step 1: Sequencing (Start in the Middle)

The most important rule for this hat is: Start in the Center and go Out.

Why Center-Out?

Imagine using a staple gun. You want to staple the fabric flat against the hat frame. By starting on the center seam and stitching outward to the left and right, you pin the fabric down perfectly.

If you stitch from Left-to-Right, you push a wave of loose fabric across the hat. When you finally hit the center bump, that wave causes a gap.

Step 2: Underlay (The Foundation)

You need to lay a foundation before you stitch the logo. But be careful—if you put too much stitching underneath, you will punch a hole in the hat.

The “Seam Tack”

Before the logo starts, your digitizer should put a single line of stitching straight up the center seam. This acts like a tack, holding the hat fabric tight to the backing paper.

Need to know more about foundations? Read our Complete Embroidery Underlay Guide.

Step 3: Pull Compensation (Making it Wider)

Hats are curved. When you stitch on a curve, the thread pulls tight and makes your design look thinner than it should.

To fix this, we use a setting called Pull Compensation. This simply tells the computer to “make the columns wider.”

• For Flat Shirts: We usually add 0.20mm of width.
• For Richardson 112 Hats: We add 0.40mm (Double the normal amount).

It might look “chunky” on your screen, but on the hat, it will look perfect.

See the math behind this in our Embroidery Pull Compensation Guide.

Step 4: Stitch Density

You don’t want the stitches to be too tight. If they are too tight on this hard hat, the needle will struggle to penetrate.

We recommend a spacing of 0.40mm. This provides great coverage without being “bulletproof.”

What about Small Text?

Small letters are the hardest part. If the text is smaller than 5mm, do not use a thick satin stitch. It will look like a blob. Use a simple, thin running stitch instead.

Learn more here: Digitizing Small Text Tips.

Step 5: 3D Puff Embroidery

The Richardson 112 is perfect for 3D Puff (the raised foam look). But that center seam can cut your foam in half.

To prevent the foam from cutting:

1. Double Density: You need twice as many stitches to cover the foam.
2. Cap the Ends: Make sure the ends of the letters are sealed so the foam doesn’t poke out.

Want to try puff? Read our 3D Puff Digitizing Guide first.

Step 6: Use the Right Needle

Even if your file is perfect, the wrong needle will ruin the hat.

• Don’t use Ballpoint Needles: These are for soft t-shirts. They can’t pierce the hard hat.
• Use a Sharp Titanium Needle: A 75/11 Sharp Titanium needle is strong enough to punch through the seam without bending.